PERBEDAAN JENIS MORDAN TERHADAP KUALITAS ECOPRINT DAUN JARAK PAGAR (JATROPHA CURCAS L.) PADA KAIN SATIN ARMANI DENGAN BLANKET MAHONI

Abstract

The leaves of Jatropha curcas L., which are rich in compounds tannins and flavonoids, are still considered underutilized vegetation waste with limited application in high-value fashion products. This study introduces novelty through the application of the iron blanket ecoprinting technique using mahogany bark extract on satin Armani fabric —a synthetic hydrophobic textile material that is conventionally difficult to bind with natural dyes. The objective of this research was to analyze the effect of different mordants (alum, iron, and lime) on color direction (hue), clarity of leaf motifs, and color fastness of the ecoprint results. This study employed a true experimental design involving 18 panelists (3 experts and 15 trained panelists) as sensory evaluation instruments. Data were analyzed using non-parametric statistical analysis with the Friedman K – related Sample assisted by SPSS software. The results demonstrated that the type of mordant had a significant effect on all three observed parameters (p = 0.000). Iron mordant (tunjung) ranked highest with a Mean Rank of 4.80 for motif clarity and 4.60 for color fastness, due to its saddening effect from iron ions which produced high-contrast and sharp leaf vein visualization. Alum mordant ranked second with a brightening effect, producing bright yellowish-brown hues, while lime mordant generated dark reddish-brown tones due to its alkaline condition. The control group without mordant obtained the lowest scores.
This research successfully overcame the hydrophobic limitation of polyester satin armani fibers through thermal manipulation in the steaming process, enabling the formation of coordination bonds between metal-tannin complexes within the fabric pores. These findings provide a significant scientific contribution to the development of sustainable textile products based on local natural resources.

Daun jarak pagar (Jatropha curcas L.) yang kaya akan senyawa tanin dan flavonoid masih tergolong limbah vegetasi yang kurang dimanfaatkan untuk produk fesyen bernilai tinggi. Penelitian ini mengangkat kebaruan melalu penerapan teknik iron blanket berbasis ekstrak kulit kayu mahoni pada kain satin Armani, material Tekstil sintetik hidrofobik yang secara konvensional sulit mengikat zat warna alam. Tujuan penelitiain adalah menganalisis pengaruh variasi jenis mordan (tawas, tunjung dan kapur sirih) terhadap warna (hue), kejelasan bentuk motif daun, serta ketahana luntur warna terhadap pencucian. Penelitian ini menggunakan rancangan eksperimen dengan melibatkan 18 panelis sebagai instrument penilaian. Data dianalisis secara statistic non – parametrik menggunakan uji Friedman K – related Sample berbantu SPSS. Hasil penelitian membuktikan bahwa jenis mordan berpengaruh signifikan terhadap ketiga parameter yang diuji (p = 0,000). Mordan tunjung menempati 4,80 dan ketahanan luntur warna 4,60 berkat efek penggelapan (saddening effect) ion besi. Mordan tawas berada di posisi kedua dengan efek pencerahan (brightening effect) menghasilkan warna kuning kecokelatan cerah, sedangkan mordan kapur sirih menghasilkan warna cokelat kemerahan tua akibat suasana alkali. Kelompok tanpa mordan memperoleh nilai terendah.penelitian ini berhasil menembus keterbatasan sifat hidrofobik sifat polyester satin Armani melalui manipulasi termal teknik kukus, sehingga memungkinkan pembentukan ikatan koordinasi logam-tanin di dalam pori kain. Temuan ini memberikan kontribusi ilmiah bagi pengembangan diversifikasi produk Tekstil berkelanjutan berbasis potensi local.