KESESUAIAN POLA DRESS SISTEM HELEN JOSEPH ARMSTRONG PADA WANITA DEWASA INDONESIA BERTUBUH TINGGI BESAR

Abstract

This study aims to analyze the suitability of dress patterns based on the Helen Joseph Armstrong basic pattern system for the body characteristics of adult Indonesian women with tall and large body types. The dress was developed using the Helen Joseph Armstrong basic pattern system; however, several weaknesses were identified, particularly in the shoulder area which requires adjustments, the back and front body lengths which are wider, and the sleeve cap height which needs to be raised by 1.5 cm from the basic sleeve pattern. 

The research method employed was a descriptive quantitative approach, through stages including pattern making, prototype garment construction, and suitability evaluation through fitting sessions. Based on the results of the first fitting, the suitability percentage of the basic body pattern was 61% (categorized as suitable), the collar pattern was 70% (categorized as highly suitable), and the sleeve pattern was 47% (categorized as less suitable). The average evaluation score across all indicators in the first fitting was 59%, classified as less suitable, leading to improvements made to the body and sleeve patterns. After modifications and the second fitting, the average evaluation percentage increased to 88%, indicating a significant improvement in pattern suitability for the respondents’ body characteristics. 

The results of this study show that the Helen Joseph Armstrong basic pattern system requires modifications in several body areas, particularly around the body circumference, back length, and shoulder width, to better fit the proportions of tall and large-bodied Indonesian women. 

It is concluded from this study that the Helen Joseph Armstrong system can assist fashion designers, manufacturers, and pattern makers in creating well-fitting and comfortable garments for adult Indonesian women with tall and large body types, as well as contribute to students' knowledge regarding the suitability of Helen Joseph Armstrong’s dress pattern system for this body type.

Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menganalisis kesesuaian pola dress berbasis pola dasar sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong terhadap karakteristik tubuh wanita dewasa Indonesia bertubuh tinggi besar. Dress menggunakan pola dasar sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong, namun ditemukan beberapa kelemahan, khususnya pada bagian bahu yang memerlukan penyesuaian, panjang punggung dan panjang muka yang lebih lebar, serta tinggi puncak lengan yang perlu dinaikkan sebesar 1,5 cm dari pola dasar lengan. 

Metode penelitian yang digunakan adalah metode deskriptif kuantitatif, melalui tahapan pembuatan pola, penyusunan prototipe busana, dan evaluasi kesesuaian melalui proses fitting. Berdasarkan hasil fitting I, persentase kesesuaian pola dasar badan sebesar 61% dengan kategori cukup sesuai, pola kerah sebesar 70% dengan kategori sangat sesuai, dan pola lengan sebesar 47% dengan kategori kurang sesuai. Penilaian rata-rata seluruh indikator pada fitting I mencapai 59% dengan kategori kurang sesuai, sehingga dilakukan perbaikan pada pola dasar badan dan lengan. Setelah dilakukan perbaikan dan fitting II, persentase rata-rata penilaian meningkat menjadi 88%, menunjukkan peningkatan kesesuaian pola dengan karakteristik tubuh responden. 

Hasil penelitian ini menunjukkan bahwa pola dasar sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong memerlukan modifikasi pada beberapa bagian tubuh, khususnya pada area lingkar badan, panjang punggung, dan panjang bahu, untuk menyesuaikan dengan proporsi tubuh wanita Indonesia bertubuh tinggi besar. 

Dari penelitian ini disimpulkan bahwa sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong dapat membantu perancang busana, produsen, dan pembuat pola dalam menciptakan pakaian yang pas dan nyaman bagi wanita dewasa Indonesia bertubuh tinggi besar, serta menambah pengetahuan mahasiswa mengenai kesesuaian pola dress sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong untuk tipe tubuh tersebut.